The Sun vs Shade Cheat Sheet

Here's the #1 reason your plants keep dying:

-sun plant and stuck it in shade. Or you planted a shade-lover in blazing sun. And then you wondered why it looked miserable and eventually gave up on life.

It's like putting a fish in the desert and wondering why it's not thriving.

Let's fix this once and for all.

Sun vs. Shade: What the Terms Actually Mean

Full Sun = 6+ hours of DIRECT sunlight

Not bright. Not "sunny-ish." Direct, unfiltered sunlight hitting the plant for most of the day.

Part Sun/Part Shade = 3-6 hours of direct sunlight

Usually morning sun with afternoon shade, or dappled light through trees.

Full Shade = Less than 3 hours of direct sunlight

This doesn't mean dark cave. It means bright, indirect light or very limited direct sun.

The mistake everyone makes: Thinking "bright" equals "full sun." That spot under your maple tree might be bright, but if it's getting filtered light through leaves, it's shade.

How to Actually Assess Your Yard

The Hour-by-Hour Test

Pick a day in mid-summer and check your planting areas every 2 hours from 8am to 6pm. Write down whether each spot is getting direct sun or not.

8am: Is the sun hitting this spot directly?

10am: Still direct sun?

12pm: How about now?

2pm: And now?

4pm: Still sunny?

6pm: Final check?

Count the hours of direct sun. That's your answer.

The Reality Check Questions

"It's under a tree, but it's bright." = Shade. Trees filter sunlight even when they don't block it completely.

"It gets morning sun but is shaded after lunch." = Part shade. Perfect for many plants, but not full-sun varieties.

"The house shades it in the afternoon." = Part sun. Great for plants that need a break from intense afternoon heat.

"It's bright all day but there's a big tree nearby." = Test it. Nearby doesn't always mean shaded.

The Plant Placement Cheat Sheet

FULL SUN CHAMPIONS (6+ hours direct sun)

Perennials:

  • Coneflowers (Echinacea)

  • Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)

     Allium
    
  • Salvia

  • Sedum

Annuals:

  • Marigolds

  • Zinnias

  • Petunias

  • Impatiens (New Guinea varieties)

What happens if you put these in shade: Weak, leggy growth. Few or no flowers. Generally sad-looking plants that never reach their potential.

PART SUN/SHADE SUPERSTARS (3-6 hours)

Perennials:

  • Daylilies

  • Coral Bells (Heuchera)

  • Astilbe

  • Japanese Painted Fern

Annuals:

  • Regular Impatiens

  • Begonias

  • Coleus

  • Caladiums

What happens if you put these in full sun: Scorched leaves, constant wilting, flowers that fade quickly.

SHADE SURVIVORS (Less than 3 hours)

Perennials:

  • Hostas

  • Ferns

  • Lamium

  • Pulmonaria

Annuals:

  • Regular Impatiens

  • Begonias (wax and tuberous)

  • Caladiums

  • Torenia

What happens if you put these in sun: Crispy, brown leaves. Constant stress. Plants that look like they're slowly dying (because they are).

The Nebraska-Specific Reality

Morning sun is gentler than afternoon sun. A plant that gets 4 hours of morning sun will be happier than one that gets 4 hours of blazing afternoon sun.

Our summer heat is brutal. Plants that can handle "full sun" in cooler climates might appreciate some afternoon shade here.

Wind matters too. That sunny, windy spot might be too harsh even for sun-loving plants.

Reflected heat is real. Plants near south-facing walls or concrete get extra heat stress.

The Common Mistakes (And How to Fix Them)

Mistake #1: "It's bright, so it must be sunny"

Fix: Do the hour-by-hour test. Bright ≠ direct sun.

Mistake #2: "The plant tag says part sun, so any sun will work"

Fix: Part sun means SOME direct sun. Not just bright conditions.

Mistake #3: "I'll just water more to compensate"

Fix: You can't water your way out of a lighting problem. Move the plant or choose a different one.

Mistake #4: "Maybe it just needs time to adjust"

Fix: Plants in the wrong light conditions don't "adjust." They just slowly die.

The Quick Fix Solutions

Too much sun?

  • Move containers to shadier spots

  • Create temporary shade with umbrellas or shade cloth

  • Transplant to a better location (fall is best for this)

Too much shade?

  • Trim tree branches to let in more light

  • Move plants to sunnier locations

  • Choose different plants that actually like shade

Just right but plants still struggling?

  • Check your soil drainage

  • Make sure you're watering correctly

  • Consider wind exposure and reflected heat

The Bottom Line

Stop fighting your yard's natural conditions.

If you have a shady yard, embrace it. Choose plants that LOVE shade instead of trying to force sun plants to survive.

If you have blazing sun, work with it. Choose plants that thrive in heat instead of babying shade plants through summer stress.

The right plant in the right place will always outperform the wrong plant with perfect care.

Your yard has microclimates. Learn them. Use them. Stop trying to change them.

And for the love of all that's green, read the plant tags and actually pay attention to what they say about light requirements.

Your plants will thank you by actually thriving instead of just surviving.

💛 Tired of guessing where to put your plants?

📲 Let's design a landscape that works with your yard's actual conditions → [link]

📍 Serving homeowners in Elkhorn, Bennington, Gretna, West Omaha + surrounding areas

Because the right plant in the right place makes all the difference.



Get in touch

Previous
Previous

How to Do This Right (It's Not Just Dumping Mulch)

Next
Next

What We Look for First When Designing Your Landscape…